REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC CUTTING
The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting:
- Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting accuracy.
- Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective.
- Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 3000C. If the fabric contains synthetic fibres e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edge may result in the fabric. As because most of those fibres melt at around 2500C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritation during use of garments. To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken:
- Reduce the height of the lay;
- Reduce the cutting speed;
- Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval;
- Lubricate the knife during cutting.
- Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting In jeans care Ltd. the sequence of the operation in Cutting Section is as follows -
FLOW SEQUENCE OF CUTTING
v
Fabric inspection
v
Fabric send to store
v
Fabric received from store
v
Marker making
v
Fabric spreading
v
Setting marker on the fabric lay
v
Fabric cutting
v
Numbering
v
Prepared the bundling card
v
Bundling
v
Quality inspection & front part- back part are fold together
v
Store
Fabric inspection
1. GSM Check
2. Dia Check
3. Fault Check
4. Point Calculation
5. Four point system calculation
6. Prepared fabric inspection report
7. Prepared weight sheet
8. Send to store (With Weight Sheet)
Fabric received from store
Marker making
Marker paper not used
Fabric spreading
Before fabric laying a thin paper as like as marker that is marker size and thin paper size is same, then thin paper attach with spreading table by gum tape then spread the fabric according to marker size.
Setting marker on the fabric lay
Spread down the marker paper over the fabric lay with gum tape.
Fabric cutting
Fabric lay is cut ting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part.
Numbering
In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.
Prepared the bundling card
Prepared bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain
1. Program No
2. Cutting No
3. Size No
4. Pies
5. Roll No
Bundling
In this stage all number parts are bundled according to serial number.
Quality inspection &front part-back part are fold together
Here all part are checked according to following fault
17. Oil spot
18. Dirty spot
19. crease mark
20. needle mark
21. foreign yarn
22. slub
23. contamination
24. hole
Then same number of sticker are matched fold & bundled
After Cutting store
All bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section
LIMITATIONS OF CUTTING SECTION
1. Input problem.
2. Scissor man cuts the tubular fabric to spread randomly and send to cutting floor and then find out the desired fabric to lay on the table.
3. There is may be no group for any table
4. Quality inspection & front part & back part are fold together. The faulty body parts are rejected but the rest ok body is not match by the same batch.
5. Cutting quality man may not be trained
6. Check, Varigated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject percentage may be increased.
7. Fabric spreading
8. There is may be no identification number to the rest of the cutting piece of the lay
9. There is no individual marker man for any unit.
10. Three cutting man cuts the fabric according to the marker.
11. Four man working with numbering m/c to sort out the cut fabric.
12. Two man preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric
13. In this stage four men bundled the parts according to serial number.
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